Wetzlar’s historic “Old Town” offers plenty of old buildings, museums, and since it was temporary home to the famous writer Goethe back in 1772. The tightly woven ensemble of historic buildings and houses in the Old Town (Altstadt) with its half-timbered houses and stone buildings from Romanesque (Wetzlar Cathedral) to Gothic to Renaissance and Baroque is to a great extent as it was in the late 18th century, preserved and extensively restored. Thus the great squares of Buttermarkt/Domplatz (“Butter Market/Cathedral Square”), Fischmarkt (“Fish Market”), Eisenmarkt (“Iron Market”), Kornmarkt (“Corn Market”), and the former Franziskanerhof (“Franciscan Yard”), now called Schillerplatz.

You definitely want to visit Wetzlar’s Dom (Cathedral). It is one of Wetzlar’s landmark buildings. Building work began on the cathedral in 1230 and is still not finished. It is the successor to a former “Church of the Saviour” consecrated in 897. Wetzlar’s Dom incorporates so many styles that it is like a stone album of German ecclesiastical architecture. Each master seems to have had his own ideas. Yet, it is remarkably harmonious on the inside with a trove of art treasures, including 14th-century frescoes and an unusual Pieta from 1380.

There are many noteworthy buildings to visit (e.g., the Lottehaus, Jerusalemhaus, and the Reichskammergerichtsmuseum) if time permits. Alternatively, just strolling casually through these old and small streets, looking at the shops, perhaps having dinner in one of the restaurants, and a dessert, for example ice cream at an Italian ice cafe.

At night there are many pubs open, some of them also offer live music.

If you want to spend more time in Wetzlar to explore in more depth we recommend doing so over several days. There is a tourist information booth at Domplatz 8 which provides detailed maps, recommended tours etc. The tour we recommend initially should take about 2-3 hours and is offered by Wetzlar’s tourist information office.

Special tip:

Park your car at the “Lahninsel” (parking is free there). From there you have a good starting point and access through Wetzlar’s historic Old-town. You can see the Lahn river there, with a great view to the 13th-century Lahn Bridge (Alte Lahnbrücke.)

Restaurants and Bars – You do not get water for free, you have to pay for it. If you order water you will get carbonated water. In most restaurants you can request tap water and they may or may not charge you but it is most likely straight from the sink. In some American fast food restaurants, (i.e. McDonalds) you must pay for ketchup as well. Be aware that the menus at most fast food restaurants in Germany are not exactly the same. You may also notice that a sandwich that you recognize from back home may taste a little different or it could be smaller. When you enter a restaurant you will not be seated, just walk right in and pick the table of your choice!- the tip should be much smaller than you would give in the States (this is because the waiters/waitresses get paid more than in the states) A tip of two or three EUR would be considered a good tip for very good service.

Supermarkets – If you shop for groceries in Germany you will notice the supermarkets have all of their large rolling carts outside in a designated area and they are locked to one another. In order to utilize a cart you must place one EUR in the cart itself, you will see the slot on the handle. Upon leaving the supermarket you latch the cart back to the other carts and pull the device out where you placed the coin, now you can retrieve your coin. When you have all of the groceries you want, proceed to the check-out counter. You will have to purchase plastic bags to put the groceries in or you can take one in yourself. If you decide to purchase one they are usually visible at the counter and normally only cost a few cents. If there is a long line do not put all of your groceries in the bag, put them back into the cart and bag them away from the line.

Closing hours – On Sunday everything is closed except for some restaurants, bars, gas stations and shops at the main train station and bigger airports. Some bigger stores are realizing that they can make much more money if they open on Sunday so they are doing just that, but I would not rely on it. During the week shops in bigger cities close at 8 PM at the latest. You may see shops in smaller cities closing even earlier.

Public Phones – Public phones are very rare in Germany. If you find one you will notice that they only take telephone cards. You can buy a telephone card in different shops like “T-Punkt”, “Telekom”, “Post”, and “Vodafone” or you can go to an Internet cafe.

Miscellaneous – “Bad” in front of a towns name does not mean that the people or the city is bad for example, “Bad Homburg”. Bad in front of a towns name normally means that the town is designated as a healthy location normally with very clean air and water.

The next Germany travel tips posts will include detailed information about popular touristic areas of Germany.

You can take a trip back into the middle ages by visiting the German castles. You will feel like you are living the life of a fairy tale or that you are a king in baroque times. These castles in Germany are filled with history and many different mysteries.

Some people do not know that there are over twenty thousand castles standing and in ruins in Germany. The European Castle Institute and the volunteers are working hard to compile a database that will include all of the castles and the ruins that can be found in Germany. This is a very big task to say the least.

Why Can You Find So Many Castles and Castle Ruins in Germany?

In the middle ages the realms of Germany were once divided into smaller states that were governed by the dukes, kings, earls, and the bishops. Each of these states together fell under the reign of the Emperor and made up the Holy Roman Empire. The Emperor had restricted power though. As the century moved on, the number of states that belonged in the Empire grew to about three hundred.

The history of these castles will be discussed a little later so let’s get back to the German castles for now.

The castles were built by the leaders in the territories and the states that fell in Empire. They were built to provide some control in their areas, to give defense from those that opposed them, and to serve as a center for their administrations. Having a castle showed great power to all around.

The castles in Germany were often times built in very strategic spots like on the top of a mountain or near a trading route that was very important to them.

As the centuries passed, the appearance of the castles began to change. As destruction from enemies or fires took place, they were rebuilt. Each new owner added their own spin on the design by adding other buildings and changing the overall style.

The castles that were built in medieval times were built to act as a fortress so they did not have many aspects that made them comfortable. There were, however, certain areas of the beautiful palaces that were designed specifically for comfort and to represent the people that dwelled there.

Famous German Castles

The journeys through the ruins and the castles in Germany allowed my husband and I some great experiences. Although I am not a huge fan of baroque, the more basic medieval castles and ruins were my absolute favorite.

Sometimes I get lost in thought about how it would feel to live in a famous German castle during the Middle Ages. I am fairly certain that it would have been much too cold for me.

Heidelberg Castle (Schloss Heidelberg)

Here you can take in the beautiful views, visit German’s pharmacy museum, take a walk through the gorgeous gardens, and really discover all that Schloss has to offer. The Heidelberg Castle offers a wide variety of experiences.

Approximately three million people pass through this castle yearly and it has become one of the most popular attractions in Germany for tourists.

Neuschwanstein Castle (Schloss Neuschwanstein)

This palace was built in the nineteenth century and is also a very popular destination for tourists from all over the world. Every year nearly 1.3 million tourists come to see the palace. The very eccentric Bavarian King Ludwig II commissioned this castle. It is almost as if you are in a fairy tale and it looks down over Fussen, a town in southern Bavaria.

Ludwig had was very fond of Richard Wagner’s operas and had the castle designed to reflect the mythology of ancient Germany.

Wartburg Castle

This castle is positioned on a precipice that is close to Eisenach, Thuringia. The Wartburg is one of the most important and oldest castles in Germany. Wartburg Castle was added to the World Heritage list by the UNESCO in 1999 due to the castle’s cultural significance. It has been called an “Outstanding Monument of the Feudal Period in Central Europe”.

Martin Luther once checked in to this castle for a stay of nine months under the name of “Junker Joerg”. He spent this time translating the New Testament into German from Latin.

Hohenzollern Castle (Burg Hohenzollern)

This castle can be found at the top of Mount Hohenzollern, some 855 meters, or 2,805 feet in the air. The gorgeous castle dates back to the beginning half of the eleventh century.

During the long history of this seat of the Emperors and Prussian Kings it was destroyed at two different times. The castle that stands there today was built during the nineteenth century. It is owned to this day by the Brandenburg-Prussian line and the Swabian line of the Hohenzollern family.

Saalburg

Of all of the Roman forts in Germany, the Saalburg has been reconstructed the most. It can be found near Bad Homburg in Hesse and is a part of the upper German Limes.

Due to the examinations and research that was completed in the later part of the 19th century in the Limes Germanicus and the surrounding forts there was very detailed excavations in the area of Saalburg. The roman fort was ordered to be reconstructed by Kaiser Wilhelm II.

As it stands today, the Saalburg is a museum and archaeological part. Many schools take their students here on their school related excursions.

Germany is a country with amazing architectural treasures. It has some minor Roman and Carolingian monuments, but it is with the Romanesque and Gothic that German building craft really came to the fore. The influence of the Renaissance was limited, but Baroque and Rococo are well represented. More modern styles, including Art Nouveau, Bauhaus, Modern, and Post-Modern, can also be found, especially in German cities. Air raids in WorldWar II ruined most German cities. Many rebuilt the damaged buildings while others opted to rebuild in modern style. Half-timbered houses (Fachwerk) make some of the most romantic townscapes and are often seen as typically German and typically medieval – though most half-timbered buildings are from the 16th to 18th century. The long tradition of dividing inheritances gave Germany literally hundreds of small states and principalities, each with its own palaces and residences. More than 20,000 castles and castle ruins are scattered throughout the country. Often the largest palaces and churches are found in what are now small and insignificant towns. Germany is more than arts and culture. It is also a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts. Hiking is the most popular activity in Germany, with thousands of marked trails throughout the country. Cycling is also popular, with many dedicated cycling routes. Canoeing and kayaking are done on many rivers and lakes. Skiing and other winter sports are possible in the Bavarian Alps and many parts of the Mittelgebirge. Germany also has amazing natural beauty, with the Bavarian Alps, the Black Forest and the Harz Mountains. This book starts in Berlin and then follows a geographical Baroque “S,” with a few extra curls at the top end, first through eastern, then northern Germany, before passing through the western states to end in Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg in the south.

Eastern Germany

Berlin, Germany’s capital and largest city, is also the most interesting destination. It has more than 170 museums, three opera houses, enormous cultural variety, and a gripping modern history. Brandenburg surrounds Berlin. It is the largest of the former East German states that joined West Germany after the Wende (the Change, as the end of the Communist regime is commonly called). It is also one of the poorest. The most popular destination here is Potsdam, which, due to its close proximity to Berlin, is more often than not visited on a day-trip from the capital. Saxony (Sachsen) is one of the most densely populated states in Germany, but has natural beauty, especially in the Saxon Switzerland area south of Dresden. Its two major cities, Dresden and Leipzig, are tourist magnets. Dresden is restoring its pre-1945 Baroque appearance and, in addition to the marvelous architecture, it has some excellent museums and art collections. The immediate appeal of Leipzig is less obvious but it is a great city to visit – giving the impression of a lived-in city rather than an artificial tourist attraction. Thuringia (Thüringen) is closely associated with German literature through the Weimar classical movement led by Goethe and Schiller. In addition toWeimar, Erfurt has a wonderfully preserved medieval town center and Eisenach has the Wartburg, the most German of castles. The Thuringian Forest is a lovely wooded low-rise mountain range of outstanding natural beauty with the Rennsteig, Germany’s most popular long-distance hiking trail, at its crest. Saxony-Anhalt (Sachsen-Anhalt) is a predominantly rural state. A large part of the beautiful Harz Mountain range is in the southern part of the state and has lovely half-timbered villages including Quedlinburg and Wernigerode. The state also has three major sights associated with Martin Luther in Wittenberg, Eisenach, and Mansfield. Saxony-Anhalt is a magnet for Romanesque architecture enthusiasts as well. Mecklenburg-Western Pomerania (Mecklenburg-Vorpommern) is the northernmost part of the former East Germany. It has the lowest population density of any state in Germany and unspoiled nature is still easy to find. Highlights include the Baltic Coast, with the island of Rügen especially popular among well-heeled travelers. In the former Hanseatic cities it is the brick Gothic churches and town halls that are especially impressive. Many country
roads are tree-lined allees.

Northern Germany

Schleswig-Holstein is in the north of the former West Germany, mostly on the Jutland peninsula that ends in Denmark. Few foreign tourists travel here, but the town of Lubeck, for centuries the queen of the Hanseatic League, is worth a journey. It has marvelous examples of brick Gothic architecture. Hamburg, a city-state, is Germany’s second-largest city and premier port. It is a spread-out city with mostly modern, low-rise buildings and much water and greenery. Especially popular are harbor cruises, the Alster Lake, and the elegant shopping arcades. Bremen, another city-state, is Germany’s second-largest harbor. It has an impressive historic center but many modern attractions are being created to appeal to younger visitors. Lower Saxony (Niedersachsen) is the original home of the Saxons. Its North Sea coast is popular with German families, but for most foreign travelers the south is more interesting. It has many small villages with wonderful half-timbered buildings such as Celle and Hann. Munden (Hannoversch Munden). The Weser Renaissance architecture of towns such as Hameln is also interesting. Hildesheim and Goslar were important towns at the foundation of the Holy Roman Empire a millennium ago and have interesting Romanesque structures as well as lovely half-timbered buildings in the old sections.

Western Germany

North Rhine Westphalia (Nordrhein-Westfalen) is densely populated, with the Ruhr district, the former powerhouse of German industry, having the highest concentration of large cities in the country. More interesting is Cologne, with its enormous Gothic cathedral, numerous Romanesque churches, excellent museums, and the most refreshing beer in the country. Bonn has important museums and Beethoven-related sights. Dusseldorf is a modern city with high fashion and modern art, while Aachen was the preferred capital of Charlemagne. Rhineland-Palatinate (Rheinland-Pfalz) boasts the most romantic stretches of the Rhine Valley, with castles or castle ruins every two km (1.2 miles). It also has the equally beautiful Mosel Valley with the meandering river in a steep, narrow valley. Speyer, Worms and Mainz have interesting Romanesque cathedrals, while Trier has the largest collection of Roman monuments in Germany. Saarland is well off the beaten track and seldom visited by foreign tourists.

Hesse (Hessen) is geographically at the center of Germany with an excellent transportation network, including Frankfurt Airport, the busiest airport in continental Europe. Frankfurt is a mostly modern city but with a couple of interesting historic buildings and a number of excellent museums. The Lahn Valley is a gem, with wonderful castles and cathedrals along Germany’s most popular canoeing river.

Southern Germany

Bavaria (Bayern) is the largest state in Germany and the most popular holiday destination for domestic and foreign travelers alike. In the north of the state is Franken, with important historic cities such as Wurzburg, Bamberg, and Nurnberg. Regensburg and Passau are on the banks of the Danube and both cities have interesting historic centers that escaped damage during the World War II. The Romantic Road is a popular holiday route that passes romantic sites, including Rothenburg ob der Tauber, the most romantic of all Germany’s medieval towns. Apart from Berlin, Munich (Munchen) is the most interesting German city. It has a vast range of cultural offerings, including excellent art museums and spectacular, mostly Baroque, royal palaces. It is the home of beer, with many historic beer halls, beer gardens and, of course,Oktoberfest. The Bavarian Alps have the most spectacular scenery in Germany. Their natural beauty is enhanced by castles, churches, monasteries, and historic towns. Baden-Wurttemberg is also popular with tourists. Heidelberg, with its majestic castle ruin, is a must-see for most foreign visitors to Germany. Stuttgart, a major industrial city, is surprisingly beautiful and has several interesting museums and galleries. The Black Forest is the largest forested area in Germany, and contains many picture-perfect towns and valleys. It is hugely popular with hikers and cyclists. Baden-Baden is the most elegant town in Germany. The Bodensee (Lake Constance) is a popular holiday area, with the Swiss Alps providing a constant backdrop to the sights along the lake shore. In addition to picturesque villages, it has historically significant sights, including the historic old town of Konstanz and the Romanesque churches on the island of Reichenau.